Gouk Fashion Show 11/03 at Gouk Gallery in Azabu Juban

On a sunny fall day, fans gathered in Azabu Juban to warm up with a taste of Gouk’s spring and summer collection. The guests were treated to an assortment of Western and Japanese sweets, Japanese steamed bamboo boxes filled with rice and seafood, tea sandwiches, and a stocked bar despite the fact that the show was taking place at two in the afternoon.

Denim and spring-like colors played a strong role in the spring collection. Designer Takeshi Kunitomo said that the theme was budding flowers, and the color scheme of the collection reflected that in the color palette with not only greens but pinks and even shades of teal. The use of electric green brought a sense of the upcoming season to the clothes, appearing in shirts, tennis shoes, and jackets, bright against Gouk’s usual blacks.

Spring in Japan means cherry blossoms, and several items had a cherry blossom print. Screams of “how cute!” from the fans greeted one warm-weather coordination of a light coat and shorts, the coat lined with a cherry blossom print. The designer didn’t limit himself to the flower’s natural colors: one particularly nice piece was a long dress in the maxi skirt style which had a cherry blossom screen printed in teal. The dress was paired perfectly with a haori Japanese-style coat that emphasized the lovely movement of the chiffon-like fabric. The combination was so nice that Kunitomo remarked he would refuse to sell them separately, though a salesgirl quickly interrupted to assure the audience that wasn’t true.

Gouk often branches out into the mode style of contemporary, high fashion design. This canbe seen in the unusual architecture of some of their pieces, such as the cardigan-on-cardigan top that has an outer layer which converts to a stole, or the loose cutsew whose sleeves form a half-circle when the model raises her arms. A blend of traditional craft and modern design is evident in the use of shibori-zome pieces (a type of traditional Japanese tie-dye) which used the old technique and a grayscale modern aesthetic to create unusual gradated ring-like designs.

A few outfits showed an adult sensibility, such as a business-like khaki outfit with subtle inserts of Japanese fabric lining the pockets, a reflection of Japanese iki (appreciation of the elegance of hidden points of design in an otherwise plain garment). There were even a few formal outfits, complete with elaborate three-dimensional corsages of the type worn by Japanese at ceremonies. Spring is wedding season in Japan, and Kunitomo mentioned he designed these as appropriate for attending a wedding. The outfits weren’t all tasteful, however: one model appeared in an open-shouldered kimono-sleeved top paired with a dangerously short skirt. “What a waste,” Kunitomo remarked as he realized he was the only man in attendance and no one was properly appreciating his sexy design.

Gouk’s line of original accessories enhanced the collection with wide bangle-bracelets, necklaces inspired by Japanese prayer beads, and printed belts. The shoes, from lavender leather wrap sandals to stylish boots, accented each outfit perfectly. This was culminated in one of the final coordinations as the model walked out wearing six-inch maiko-inspired platform clogs. The show-stopping outfit featured a tall-collared white jacket almost covering the model’s face, a large corsage arrangement in her hair, and a multi-layered flower petal like skirt. The skirt, made up of a full twelve meters of fabric, managed to still be light and wearable.

The final model was a taste of something different, wearing a set coordinate from Kunitomo’s KuniKuni line in his signature polka dot pattern. Kunitomo announced that from now on there would be a KuniKuni “special set” released every month. That wasn’t the only announcement, however. Parent company s-inc has been restructured and renamed, with Kunitomo now at the head of k-incs. Though the company may have changed, hopefully the emphasis on fresh, alternative fashion will remain the same.

There are 38 photos in this visual kei exclusive.

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