z8′s Special Announcement at “Funeral,” GRAMM Fall & Winter Collection Show

A black-clad crowd gathered at Harajuku’s h.NAOTO Plus store on June 2 for Funeral, the GRAMM fall and winter collection. Dimmed lights and elegant piano set the mood as the music rose to a crescendo and the first model emerged.

Clad in white and tan, the model shuffled slowly out into the crowd, giving the viewers ample time to examine her layered jacket and bloomers coordinate. The short lace-topped ankle socks and wrist-length gloves brought a nice symmetry to the outfit. A hat decorated by a lace butterfly topped off the look, and the butterfly motif continued as the next model emerged and all eyes flew to her striking butterfly and flower head piece. The short, asymmetric dress was set off by subtle tie-dyed color in shades of pale violet. These two looks illustrated the contrast running throughout the ten looks shown in the collection as they fell along one of two lines: Victorian-inspired aristocratic wear in white, and more modern looks in black and floral colors. Though evocative of different eras, the two stylistic approaches worked surprisingly well together, creating a style continuum instead of stark contrast.

Cords, ropes, and braids were a common motif in the collection, used subtly as decoration on skirts and pantaloons and outlandishly in a parka that resembled Japanese shibari rope bondage made out of human hair. Even a full floor-length Victorian skirt had cords hanging in the lace and accenting the shirred top. Some coordinates showed a touch of whimsy, such as a cut-­out paper-doll dress sewn onto an oversized shirt or polka-dot socks paired with a fashionable, long, layered dress. As the models moved like ghosts, everyone could appreciate the detail and care that went into each piece.

Designer z8 emerged to applause. “Thank you for coming today. Up until today, I’ve done very bright shows with a lot of communication between the crowd and the models. This time, the show was dim, the title being Funeral. But even a funeral isn’t the end.”

Though z8 is still going abroad for upcoming convention events, she announced that GRAMM is coming to an end and will finish with a final collection. “The GRAMM world has always been smaller than say, Sixh. or HANGRY&ANGRY. The end of the story is coming, and I don’t know if I’m sad or happy. But before it ends, I have to be satisfied with it for myself.”

She then had one more surprise, calling upon a leaving staff member attending her final event to change into the final coordinate. Though the show was a funeral, the last outfit was a stunning wedding dress, with layers of cascading white lace, a trailing train, and embroidered veil. By ending a dark show on a hopeful note, z8 showed her commitment to her craft and her vision’s future regardless of how the story ends.